How to Know if You Need a Magnum

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Howdy friends,
I'thou only getting into reloading and the commencement cartridge I want to reload is going to be the legendary .44 magnum. I estimate my savings volition be extraordinary by loading .44 magnum myself, and I can load more accurate cartridges with heavier loads as a bonus.

I've done some research on the various accoutrements for reloading and have some equipment on the way, but I at present need to make up one's mind what components I want to order and ultimately get together. Based on my readings I've wound upward with more questions than answers and I'm hoping this forum can assist set me direct. Here are a few of my questions:

- How important is using the verbal primer from a given recipe? For case, if the recipe calls for a "CCI 300 large pistol primer" tin I use a Sellior & Bellot big pistol primer in it's place? What about magnum vs. standard? Based on what I've read using "whatever primer is almost affordable" is non brash by anyone only is more often than not done past merely near everyone. I am partially reloading to reduce cost so I'm interested in using whatsoever brand of primer is most affordable (or on sale) if I can become away with that- What say yous?

- How important is using the exact bullet from a given recipe? For example, if I have a recipe in my Lee loading manual that says "240 grain jacketed bullet" with no further elaboration what bullet are those recipes referring to? Obviously lead vs. jacketed is a substantial difference that requires different loads, only what well-nigh jsp vs. jhp? Could I use the same "240 grain jacketed bullet" load for either bullet blazon that I got a better deal on majority?

- Is "Copper plated" it's own affair, or should I be using lead loads, or "light" jacketed loads, or what? I can get copper jacketed rounds (diameter .429) or exposed lead rounds (diameter .431), and so merely to make things interesting I tin become copper plated rounds which have special loads in some manuals, no specific loads in others, and which are advised for "low velocity" from their manufacturer

- All the "jacketed" rounds I've seen have been .429, except for 1 set of JSP .431 rounds sold from Everglades Ammunition. What's the deal with .431 JSP? Why is jacketed ammo traditionally .429 while lead is .431, with plated at .430 or .431? Is .431 JSP safe to burn in my Redhawk revolver, and tin I load it to the loftier velocity high pressure loads I aspire to in my manuals?

Sorry for all the questions but I figured if I get an answer to even a few of these bullets I'll know a lot more than I did before. Happy New Years everyone!
I'chiliad sure y'all will become a lot more suggest from others but as far every bit primers go I only apply Winchester Large Pistol Primers in my 44 Magnums that way information technology eliminates the question as to weather i needs magnum or non magnum primers. Also I've never used .431 jacketed bullets merely .429 &.430. I've never seen a recommendation for.431 jacketed bullets only lead. If you are planning on loading to max pressures I'd stay abroad from lead and plated bullets. Distressing I wasn't more assist.
Primer- some powders like 296 volition demand a magnum primer. The WLP will work for all powders. All brawl powderS need a magnum primer. IMO.
Bullet- option a bullet that fits the use. Humting vs target tin be very different.

Bullet diameter- jacketed from .429" .4295" and .430" are available from major articles. To me, jacketed diameter ways piffling. Use a starting load and work upwards with the bullet of your choice.
Lead bullet diameter should exist picked to work all-time with firearm. Cast lswc'due south at .430" have worked well for me in many revolvers.

No experence with plated.
I use coated lead bullets for calorie-free special loads (Unique) and full magnum loads (W296) with no issues. They are sized @ .430 simply run a little larger.
Savor your .44!
happy new year to you, as well!
if you desire accurate rounds:

make them still: same bullet, same primer, same case manufacturer (starline for accuracy), fully size the example to prevent a base bulge, at least .004" neck/bullet tension, aforementioned crimp (heavy (trim to same length if necessary)), seat and crimp in separate steps.

ask a lot of questions.

match the primer to the pulverisation.

exact recipe with a bullet? not and so much.

copper plated is its ain affair depending on thickness and plating process. each manufacturer should tell which load information to utilise with their bullets. if not, ask here. some bullets accept thin plating and require low velocity lead load information. again, continue asking questions.

the varied bullet diameters don't thing much. just starting time low on the reloading chart and work up.

work up to those "high velocity high pressure loads" and exist patient, imo.

luck,

murf
44 rifle or handgun? For rifle my manuals say .430 for jacketed and .431 for lead. In handgun department it says .429 for jacketed. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/429-vs-430-dia-for-jacketed-44-mag.538019/
I would watch for Winchester or cci primers on auction i'1000 not a fan of S&B. I've had too many issues with minor pistol primers.

Plated bullets you use lead or light jacketed data. Plated manufactures will listing their max velocity and so start at min and workup for accurateness, pressure and attempt not to get over the manufactures velocity.

JSP VS JHP-doesn't matter every bit long equally the weight is the same for the data in the book.

You asked how important the bullet weight is for a given recipe? Its very of import because you lot cant use say 23gr of one powder for say a 240gr bullet and so alter to a 300gr bullet and use the aforementioned. Always follow the books data for the bullet weight or brand/model.
All good suggest so far. The jacketed bullets are the easiest to get to shoot accurately (at first). Y'all demand to go a handle on this before jumping to lead IMHO. Be advised that the OAL (over all length) of JSP will exist different than JHP for ammo that volition produce the same pressure. The hollow point will make the bullet longer then if you were to use the same OAL it would exist pushed into the case more and produce a college force per unit area. You will be crimping into the crimp groove anyway but exist mindfull of where that is with respect to the bullet base for force per unit area reasons. That is why I work up a different load for each bullet I use. Some revolvers have cylinder throats that are smaller than the barrel bore diameter this volition produce excessive leading when loading with lead bullets as they will not expand enough to seal out the hot gasses that melt the lead and cause leading. That is something to cheque before you start reloading/shooting lead in a revolver IMHO. Slugging the barrel and all cylinders will tell you what you need to practise. I have several Ruger revolvers and I have had to ream at least ane of the throats on all of them FWIW. Primer brand does non affair to me so much as I cannot shoot the deviation between them but practise use Mag primers where indicated. Ask the manufacturer what blazon of data they want you to utilize for plated every bit a best answer. If y'all are like me any savings I get volition be translated into more than lead downwards range and a bigger smile.
I had to smiling a little flake on that one. In pistol loads primers are somewhat interchangeable. One more reason to first low and work up though. I don't load many max loads, and so I don't worry much if I change primers, I only check numbers and accuracy first before loading a lot of them. (Well, unremarkably.)
Some powders demand magnum primers. If the data uses one, use one, if it doesn't, don't. That said, occasionally yous will need a magazine primer when they don't call for one in the data, and so there is the Winchester LP primer which they say is good for both.

In full general, yep, you tin use another brand bullet if it matches weight and type. A cup and core 240 Gr JHP? Yes, you can utilise another 240 Gr loving cup and cadre JHP or JSP. Aureate Dots which are heavily plated are a bit different, and often accept their own data, just you can apply them if yous commencement low and work up carefully.

Plated bullets are not lead and not jacketed. The loading suggestions for them has changed over the years even from the plated bullet makers. Note dates on/in posts
Plated Link i

Plated Link two

Plated Link 3

In general jacketed bullets for .44 Magazine are .429 to lucifer the caliber (Information technology's non a .44, information technology's a .429). Atomic number 82 needs to be a pilus over groove bore so they are by and large .430. That said, there are .430 jacketed bullets out there, and aye, they are safe to use. And lead can be had larger than .430 as well. Pb should match the revolver throats and the throats should be over groove diameter. That is a whole nother word. Overall though most guns shoot .430 pb fine and .429 jacketed fine.

What powder and bullets do you have in listen?
quaid Fellow member

Joined:

April 18, 2012

Letters:

129
I would skip copper plated in favor of the coated (eastward.k. Hitek type pulverisation coatings, Missouri bullet visitor has a nice option). Nice crimp grooves available in the coated lead bullets.
I have pushed MBC's coated bullets to total 44 mag velocities out of my 44 lever burglarize, and they would piece of work fine for special or light loads.
Reloading for .44 mag is one of the easiest cartridges to master and one of the most rewarding to reload. As for primers, specific brands are not really that important for .44 magazine and recipes should non have to exist adapted if i is not using the same brand as specified in the recipe. While one can safely interchange Magnum and Standard primers in a larger capacity example like .44 mag(fifty-fifty with H110/W296), Inexperienced reloaders should stick to what the recipe calls for. Another suggestion I take for new reloaders is to stick with jacketed bullets from reputable manufacturers. While they practice non give 1 the most savings, they are the easiest to have success with as far equally accurateness and crimp. Jacketed also are not affected by bore and pharynx diameters like atomic number 82 and will not foul ones barrel(mostly) if the bore/throats are not perfectly matched to bullet diameter. Plated/coated bullets while easier to have success with than evidently atomic number 82, are more prone to crimp error. Once one has consequent success with jacketed, it's much easier to understand and chronicle to the differences ane experiences from lead and plated. Like most things in life when offset starting out one needs to use the KISS approach.......keep it simple stupid. Do not start at max, compare recipes from more than than one source(published sources, not the random net guy) and avoid extremes in deviation of those sources. Load in minor batches and do not buy anything besides primers in bulk until you lot figure out what really works well for you, in your guns, for your specific applications.
At that place is but i proper bullet for a 44 mag. That'south a Kieth style LSWC with a gas cheque. I'm baffled why annihilation else exists.
That said, like mentioned earlier you need to learn to load a jacketed bullet first. The lead bullets accept special care to size properly, select proper finished length, crimp correctly co-ordinate to pressure, and the oral cavity flare needs to be but enough. You also really need a vintage Lyman book to become the real loads from.

As for learning. I'd buy some jacketed bullets that are listed specifically in your manual. Hornady xtp or gold dot'southward are most common to notice I'd say in my area anyway. Start in the bottom quarter of the data and work up to the superlative quarter. That will show you how to read primers for pressure particularly if you lot use a not magnum primer.
Stick to the information. It would be skillful to use the primer they recomend, just some books don't even say specifically.

Effort to purchase your supplies from a local shop where you lot can become advise from the man behind the counter. Lots of loading shops have presses setup and information technology wouldn't have but a minute for them to testify you lot how to setup the dies.

You'll eventually find that loading ammo is like cooking. Lots of cooks veer from the recepie, only instead of a bad meal you become a ruined gun or missing hands and eyes if you screw up.
typhun Member

Joined:

Sep 14, 2013

Messages:

122
My expereince with 44 mag was getting case tension and crimping set properly especially when loading at or most max, watch for bullet jump. Burn a couple and so check the remaining.
I avoid plated bullets in revolvers since it is better to have a real crimp groove and to avoid needing a taper crimp die. I did manage to employ some plated in 41 Magnum, but the crimp wasn't what information technology should have been, while the load wasn't extreme. I now use the residuum of those bullets just in 41 Special target ammo.
Don't tell anyone, if y'all practise there volition be a blitz to the store to purchase all of the presses, dies, smokeless pulverization and primers. Then there will be none left for me.
Good suggest, first dull. The XTPs are the same cost per hundred as an unknown bullet from Everglades. They might shoot great, and at least out shoot y'all, but if they don't, you'll wonder if a known bullet would take.
In one case you get a little more comfortable, and want to endeavor something lower priced, heck, buy 500 of the Everglades bullets and endeavor them. Chances are good they are at least "adept enough".
While no doubt a keen bullet, I had to giggle a little at that. One of the attributes of the .44 is so many choices.
Never bad advise.
The coated "Kieth" bullet is a great selection if yous are looking to salve a few pennies over premium jacketed.
My response follows each chunk of your post.
.1 I'm just getting into reloading and the first cartridge I desire to reload is going to exist the legendary .44 magnum. I approximate my savings will be extraordinary past loading .44 magnum myself, and I can load more accurate cartridges with heavier loads as a bonus.

Yeah you volition save a lot as .44mag is one of the almost marked up rounds in common caliber.

.two I've washed some inquiry on the diverse accoutrements for reloading and have some equipment on the mode, only I now need to decide what components I want to order and ultimately assemble. Based on my readings I've wound up with more than questions than answers and I'm hoping this forum tin can assist set me straight. Hither are a few of my questions:

That's a mutual problem.

.iii How important is using the exact primer from a given recipe? For example, if the recipe calls for a "CCI 300 large pistol primer" can I use a Sellior & Bellot large pistol primer in it'south place? What about magnum vs. standard? Based on what I've read using "whatsoever primer is near affordable" is not brash past anyone but is more often than not done by just about everyone. I am partially reloading to reduce cost so I'm interested in using whatever make of primer is nearly affordable (or on sale) if I can get abroad with that- What say you?

I'm no stickler for the exact primer listed. I just match the blazon, specifically if information technology is magnum rated or not.

.iv How important is using the exact bullet from a given recipe? For example, if I have a recipe in my Lee loading manual that says "240 grain jacketed bullet" with no further elaboration what bullet are those recipes referring to? Obviously lead vs. jacketed is a substantial difference that requires dissimilar loads, but what almost jsp vs. jhp? Could I employ the same "240 grain jacketed bullet" load for either bullet type that I got a amend bargain on majority?

Verbal bullet is not of extreme importance provided they are similar. Look at bullet profile, weight, and bearing surface (area getting friction as the bullet travels through the butt) and if they are similar then get fo it, simply ever start depression and work upwardly. I liked the Hornady 240gr bullet when I was loading 44mag. I loaded all I had and kept the ammo when I sold the gun because I will option upwardly another 44 and go on going with that load.

.5 Is "Copper plated" it'due south own thing, or should I be using lead loads, or "light" jacketed loads, or what? I tin go copper jacketed rounds (diameter .429) or exposed lead rounds (diameter .431), and so simply to make things interesting I tin get copper plated rounds which accept special loads in some manuals, no specific loads in others, and which are advised for "depression velocity" from their manufacturer

Copper plated (Berrys?) bullets are in between lead and jacketed. Utilise lead data. The bullets don't hold up well when pushed harder and can cause issues in the gun as well as externally.

.6 All the "jacketed" rounds I've seen have been .429, except for one set of JSP .431 rounds sold from Everglades Ammunition. What'due south the deal with .431 JSP? Why is jacketed ammo traditionally .429 while lead is .431, with plated at .430 or .431? Is .431 JSP safe to fire in my Redhawk revolver, and tin can I load it to the high velocity high pressure level loads I aspire to in my manuals?

That'southward the common manner. All calibers are like in the size divergence between lead and jacketed.

.7 Sad for all the questions but I figured if I get an answer to even a few of these bullets I'll know a lot more I did before. Happy New Years everyone!

The only stupid question is the i you don't enquire. In this hobby that can get y'all injure or even killed. Ask away.
I disagree with this. So exercise the plated bullet makers.
Ditto. I would non do a top terminate load with plated, but otherwise I employ jacketed information.
Kieth bullets are besides a good choice for hunting game, shooting steel plates, reduced loads, all out hot rod loads!
Only a homo has to have casting stuff to take full advantage of all that. I approximate that is the disadvantage.
I looked information technology upwards and must concede. In practice it doesn't change much if your safety protocol is adequate during load workup. Beginning depression and piece of work up. If something seems weird during shooting End. Safely verify your butt is unobstructed, inspect the weapon, and continue but after you determine its safe to do and then. That's more important than the numbers.
ray15 Member

Joined:

Apr 18, 2017

Letters:

965
I recently tested some xtreme heavy-plate bullets back-to-back against Hornady XTPs using the aforementioned min to max W296 load ladders in a .357 magnum. Long story short, those .357" plated bullets did the same velocities equally the XTPs did at a given accuse weight. At both 125 and 158 grain.
I've come to call up that it's generally condom to apply jacketed max loads with plated bullets under two conditions - the plating is thick enough for the resultant velocity and the diameter of the plated bullet matches that of the jacketed 1. Many plated makers, including Drupe's, tend to size their products slightly larger than typical jacketed diameters.

I know when I use Berry's plated bullets in 9mm I achieve max jacketed velocities with a little less accuse than the published jacketed data. When I use xtreme plated bullets, which tend to exist sized a bit smaller and like typical jacketed bullets, the velocity vs. accuse weight matches published jacketed data very well in about cases.
When I used to shoot a lot of 115 Gr RN in 9MM at near full data the Ranier 115 Gr RN and Hornady 115 Gr RN encapsulated ran well-nigh tit for tat with the same charge weights with various powders.
I have tried to hurt Powerbond plated bullets in .38 Spl, midrange .357, and 9MM/.38 Super, and couldn't practice it. Their 125 Gr HP bullet can do all that +P .38 Spl can practice to information technology. The similar 124 Gr 9MM/.38 Super HP can take all those tin can do to it.

Here is the Powerbond 125 Gr HP in .357 at an average 1257 FPS.
The new rated to 1500 FPS X-Treme and Berrys bullets are pretty danged tough too.
That said, I would only use plated for midrange .44 Mag loads (If I loaded them), like I practise with .41 magazine. Use a taper crimp and call it good.
I did buy some Ability bail .44 bullets to test, just haven't gotten around to it. I used to shoot the Ranier 240 Gr .44 bullets at midrange .44 Mag ability level with Blue Dot years ago.
Thanks for all the input everyone, here are a few boosted thoughts from yours truly:I intend to load for target shooting using handguns at this time, I take both a Ruger Super Blackhawk and a Ruger Redhawk that I'll be firing my .44 magnum rounds through. I want to offset out with lighter loads while I get a handle on what I'm doing. One time I'm a little more adept I want to commencement loading some actually hot, fast rounds with a massive smash and report to impress people at the range and requite myself the thrill only heavy magnum loads tin produce just I sympathise that is something I should work up to.I am eyeballing Berry'due south and Rainier plated bullets, but I've heard Berry'south are marginally superior so I was thinking Berry's in particular. They seem to be very prevalent and the reviews more often than not seem pretty favorable. I am considering buying a box of 500 of the 240gr plated FP bullets and though they lack a specific crimp groove my hope is that light target loads won't need a tremendous crimp to perform well. Am I going to get into problem trying to load those rounds? It seems crimping a plated circular is risky because it'due south very like shooting fish in a barrel to pierce the plating and compromise the bullet simply I was hoping I wouldn't need much crimp if I loaded to 1000-1100 fps.Though I ultimately want to load some really heavy charges, I'k going to exist starting closer to the minimum and brand some light target loads to commencement out and go acquainted with reloading. Berry's bullets seem very affordable and are rated for upwards to 1,200 FPS according to the manufacturer so if I'thou loading 1,000-1,100 FPS loads they should be very light in recoil and I can "practise" reloading on rounds with plenty of margin for mistake on both the high and depression end. A quick wait at my Lee manual I think I'll be using Universal, Titegroup, and HP38 powders and working with each to effigy out what my gun likes best. Those powders seem great for starting loads, only would dearest communication on other powders if those aren't such a good idea subsequently all.Those MBC bullets await extremely affordable and if what yous're saying is truthful they might be the obvious choice. Can I really load those upward to 1500 fps without leading? I hadn't seen the "coated" bullets until yous pointed them out to me so thank you for opening my eyes to that and I'll probably buy a box of 500 to endeavor out. Information technology looks like they offer the "Keith" bullet that I suppose I ought to be using. If those are slap-up at high velocity I could utilise the same bullet for a variety of target and heavy loads, whereas I was currently considering ownership plated for light loads and jacketed for heavy loads.
One other matter about those MBC bullets- My range doesn't allow "exposed lead bullets" to be fired every bit it's an indoor range and aerosolized pb in an indoors environment is extremely undesirable. I volition of grade check with my range directly to run across what their policy on coated bullets is, but are coated lead bullets prophylactic the way plated and TMJ bullets are? Even if they permit the bullets I wouldn't want to use them indoors unless they are as safe every bit Plated/TMJ rounds.

Thanks over again for all the bully info everyone, THR is a wonderful resource for a new reloader such as myself and I appreciate everyone who has posted hither for helping me out.